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One was delighted to discover that the South Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into 4cm chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, prepared and minced
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
Forty milliliters mild oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Place in a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.